My friend Monika and I had this idea to take a few of our friends and do a two weeks trip in the Caribbean starting from Miami.
Our main destination was Cuba but because we couldn't find direct flights to Havana we decided to do a stopover in Miami and see a bit more.
So we bought the flights to Florida and we were just about to purchase tickets from Miami to Havana when I got a pop-up message saying that such flights are not allowed for tourists.
A little bit of stress but Monika straight away suggested flying to Cancun and from there to our destination. Flights turned out to be reasonably cheap so we got them.
It was five of us, two of the girls and I flew to Miami for a few days and the other two went straight to Mexico where we were supposed to meet on the weekend.
It was strictly because of some visa issues why we had to separate.
On our first day in Miami, we headed towards Ocean Drive, Nikky Beach, and South Beach.
It was a long walk but so worth the hassle. We walked past Art Deco District, took lots of photos and videos, and just enjoyed the sunshine.
In the afternoon we got back to the hotel, went straight to the swimming pool, and started planning our evening. We managed to find a club promoter who could get us into one of the popular clubs in the area.
We were a bit disappointed, people weren't really dancing, our promoter couldn't care less about us until all the girls left his table and his clients didn't have anyone to stare at.
But whatever, we had a bit of fun just the three of us.
The second day was probably the coolest one we had in Florida. We woke up at 6 am and took a bus to Key West. Key West it's a small island, the southernmost point in Florida where you can see Cuba if the weather allows.
It took us 4 hours to get there and one very irritating tour guide who just couldn't shut up.
Again, we walked loads, enjoying the beautiful houses, chickens on the loose, and everything around us. That place stole our hearts!
We got tired of walking after a few hours so we rented bikes and cycled around.
Normally I would be a bit scared to do that because of cars and a new place but it was so relaxed there, people were driving their cars very very slowly minding cyclist, pedestrians and most importantly chickens!
While we were walking around we came across a Polish shop (all of us were from Poland), it was quite funny to eat pierogi so far away from home.
Our bus back to Miami was around 6 pm and I think it was enough time for us to do whatever we wanted.
On day three we went to Aroma Espresso for breakfast and after that took a city bus to downtown. By the way, food places in Miami and probably everything else are soooo expensive! People say London is pricey but it can be cheap if you just look around (it's not that hard) but Miami was just too much.
Wynwood Art District was first on our list. It's a place with lots of graffitis where people take Instagram pictures etc. It was pretty but didn't shock me much.
Then we went to Little Havana to have some food and see how it looks. The street wasn't impressive or anything but we found this cute restaurant and I still remember to this day that I got the most delicious rice with beans ever!
In the evening we went to another club where people acted the same way as in the first one but we didn't care anymore and just had fun on our own.
Last day in Miami, drama from early morning! I got an email that our flight back to Europe is being canceled, I remember we had issues with even finding a new flight from Havana to anywhere as long as we had our location selected as the US. We quickly figured it out and changed it to the UK or whatever. We managed to find a new one with a transfer in Toronto, 8 hours waiting time, which we thought was a great idea. Enough time to see a new city at least a little bit of it.
Most of the day was spent by the pool and then shopping at Lincoln Lane, then it was just packing and preparing for the next day.
On Saturday we went to the airport to catch a flight to Cancun. A 1.5-hour flight with beautiful views of the Caribbean Sea with its turquoise water. Probably the most pleasant journey in my life.
The check-in at the hotel was open from 2 pm and we were there two hours prior. It was a nightmare! Poor Monika waited in the queue for those two hours, with only one or two people in front of her and they were being served very slowly. The person at the reception took so long to help Monika she was already angry when she got to the desk and after checking some documents the guy told her they did overbooking and they don't have rooms for us. I can't imagine how pissed off she must've been. But she's good at getting something out of situations like this. In the end, they gave us (all 5 of us as the girls were just about to join us) 2 suites in another building this hotel has, it was more of a VIP area, we had jacuzzis on our balconies and rooms were next to each other so out of laziness we could just jump through the balcony and get to the other room, I did that all the time. Everything was great about this place, view of the sea, which was super close, pools, and restaurants, there was even a small club in the basement.
We were in Cancun only for three days, second day got wasted on being hangover and swimming in the pool.
On Monday we decided to finally do something and went to the city, we were looking for the best deal to see cenote and some other attractions. We spoke to a few people and finally found the best guide. They took us to Boca de Puma where we could drive quads (ATVs), zip line in the jungle, and swim in a cenote.
It wasn't anything too stunning but considering our budget and timing (we got there quite late) it was pretty good, the zip line was probably the best part.
The next day was our travel day, our almost final destination - Havana, Cuba.
I was so excited to be there and see this place, I've been dreaming about it for a long time and I can tell you it didn't disappoint.
At the airport, we got a taxi which was a very old Chevrolet, on the way to the city we started seeing a lot of similar cars which Cuba is famous for. Somewhere down the line we realized that most of them are taxis, private people usually drive more modern cars and the old ones are kept for tourists which is still pretty cool.
We rented an Airbnb in the Old Town of Havana. We had 3 rooms there, each one with a bathroom and two very lovely housemaids who came there only a few times a day or whenever we needed something. The price was very good, the location even better and the owner seemed super sweet.
One of the maids showed us the way to a bank and a place where we could buy internet cards. Using the internet in Cuba is very complicated, it's there mainly for tourists as people can't afford to have it in their homes or they're not allowed, I'm not sure. There are some wifi spots in some places, usually available only for a few hours each day. Mostly you can connect in hotels but you need to get a special card which gives you 1 hour which you can use in a month.
Can you imagine that? We spend many hours every day staring at our screens and over there you get only one hour per month.
Obviously, you can buy more cards and use them all if you want but I think for local people it's quite expensive and it's not so easy to buy. You get it from the 'black market', maybe you could buy it in a hotel too but we got ours in the city.
That day we walked around a lot and at some point we got very hungry, it wasn't so easy to find a restaurant which would suit all 5 of us so we stopped at the first one we could see and that was a mistake. For me, as a vegetarian, they didn't have any options so they gave me a salad made of raw cabbage. It was disgusting!
On our first day in Havana, 3 of us decided to go dancing, someone told us about Case De La Musica which was apparently the best place to dance but when we got there we found the place closed down. Someone was kind enough to show us a cute little bar, it was small but we didn't mind. We stayed there until late.
In the morning we ate breakfast at our Airbnb and went to hop on hop off bus to see the city from the upper deck. It was a nice journey, long enough to see different parts of the city.
All of us went clubbing that night. The place was called Fantaxy and I loved how they mixed Latin music with hip hop and all the popular songs. The place was packed and people were staring at us. It was probably because we were 5 girls dancing with each other where most of the local girls were dancing with guys. At least I'm explaining it to myself that way. We didn't care anyway.
Our neighbor recommended to us his Son's restaurant and we thought it's a great idea to have a walk there. It was probably one hour walk in bright sunshine with 30 degrees. The place was called the Magic Flute. We were super tired when we got there.
Most of the girls decided to go back to our Airbnb and have a nap and only Joanna and I decided to explore the city a bit more. We took a taxi to Moro Castle where you can see the city from uphill.
We walked around the Old Town a bit more and got back to our rooms when it started raining.
We went to Fantaxy in the evening again. Danced like there was no tomorrow and ended the night at 4 am.
And that was our last day in Havana, there was another journey to make and another stop.
There's something very special about this country, maybe it's the lack of internet why people are so nice and helpful. Boys on the streets don't come up to girls but they send them kisses (kind of like what you do to a dog), it gets annoying but that's how they show someone they like them. People play chess on the streets, on the main boardwalk kids play football or learn how to skateboard, they're always singing or dancing. You rarely see people on their phones, you see them sometimes and it's mainly close to a wifi spot. It's so different over there, it's like going back in time.
We chose Varadero as our last stop because we knew we will need some chill time.
Varadero is known for all-inclusive hotels and we stayed in one of those.
It was a short walk to the beach and they had a big swimming pool. It was alright.
To get to the hotel was quite interesting. Someone recommended to us this taxi driver who didn't realize how many suitcases we had. It was 5 of us with 5 large suitcases and the car wasn't as big as the one we got from the airport but managed to squeeze everything in. That meant I had to sit with my legs up on one of the bags but it was funny.
After having some lunch we went to the beach with a wireless speaker and made a little disco there.
All the rest of the days in Varadero looked pretty much the same: eating, drinking, swimming, tanning, watching the shows in the evening, and a few times we went to the club located in that hotel but it wasn't that good.
On 12.06 we had our flight back to England through Canada. We had to wake up while it was still dark outside, pack our shit into the taxi, and drive to Havana airport.
Those few hours in Toronto we spent walking around and looking for something to do.
I think we were a bit tired by that point to search for something exciting so looking at skyscrapers was enough.
I have to tell you one thing, Canada Airlines are the best airlines I ever flew with! Everything was great about that flight. It was so comfortable I could fly around the world and back and don't feel tired. Highly recommend it!
And going back to that drama with our cancelled flight, we obviously got the money back for cancellation but also I found a company that gets you extra money if something like this happens so we got some extra cash a few months after we came back! Win-win.
My favourite stop was definitely Havana with its friendly and smiley people, beautiful buildings and cars.
If you ever have the opportunity to go there, just do it! Or even if you don't have the opportunity, make one before it changes completely.
POLISH VERSION
POLSKA WERSJA
(przepraszam za brak polskich znakow)
Razem z moja przyjaciolka Monika wpadlysmy na pomysl, aby zabrac kilka naszych kolezanek na dwutygodniowa wycieczke na Karaiby, zaczynajac w Miami.
Naszym glownym celem byla Kuba, ale poniewaz nie moglysmy znalezc bezposrednich lotow do Hawany, postanowilysmy zrobic przystanek w Miami i zobaczyc cos wiecej.
Kupilysmy wiec loty na Floryde i wlasnie mialysmy kupic bilety z Miami do Hawany, kiedy dostalam pop-up wiadomosc z informacja, ze takie loty nie sa dozwolone dla turystów.
Troche stresu, ale Monika od razu zasugerowala lot do Cancun, a stamtad do celu. Loty okazaly sie dosc tanie, wiec je kupilysmy.
Bylo nas piec, dwie dziewczyny i ja polecialysmy na kilka dni do Miami, a dwie pozostale prosto do Meksyku, gdzie mialysmy sie spotkac w weekend.
To wlasnie z powodu pewnych problemow wizowych musialysmy sie rozdzielic.
Pierwszego dnia w Miami skierowalysmy sie w strone Ocean Drive, Nikky Beach i South Beach.
To byl dlugi spacer, ale warto. Przeszlysmy obok dzielnicy Art Deco, zrobilysmy wiele zdjec i filmów i po prostu cieszylysmy sie sloncem.
Po poludniu wrócilysmy do hotelu, poszlysmy prosto na basen i zaczelysmy planowac nasz wieczor. Udalo nam sie znalezc promotora klubu, ktory mogl wprowadzic nas do jednego z popularnych klubow w okolicy.
Bylysmy troche rozczarowane, ludzie tak naprawde nie tanczyli, nasz promotor nie przejmowal sie nami, do momentu az wszystkie dziewczyny nie odeszly od jego stolika, a jego klienci nie mieli na kogo sie gapic.
Ale niewazne, i tak sie dobrze bawilysmy tylko we trojke.
Drugi dzien byl chyba najfajniejszy, jaki mialysmy na Florydzie. Wstalysmy o 6 rano i pojechalysmy autobusem do Key West. Key West to mala wyspa, najbardziej wysuniety na poludnie punkt na Florydzie, z ktorego mozna zobaczyc Kube, jesli pozwala na to pogoda.
Dotarcie tam zajelo nam 4 godziny ktore uprzykrzal nam przewodnik nie potrafiacy sie przymknac.
Znow spacerowalysmy, cieszac sie pieknymi domami, kurczakami na wolnosci i wszystkim wokol nas. To miejsce skradlo nasze serca!
Zmeczylysmy sie chodzeniem po kilku godzinach, wiec wypozyczylysmy rowery i jezdzilysmy po okolicy.
Normalnie bym sie troche bala z powodu samochodów i nowego miejsca, ale bylo tam tak spokojnie, ludzie jezdzili bardzo powoli, zwracajac uwage na rowerzystow, pieszych i co najwazniejsze kury!
Spacerujac po okolicy natknelysmy sie na polski sklep (wszystkie bylysmy my z Polski), zabawnie bylo zjesc pierogi tak daleko od domu.
Nasz autobus z powrotem do Miami byl okolo 18:00 i mysle, ze wystarczylo nam na zrobienie tego, co chcialysmy.
Trzeciego dnia udalysmy sie na sniadanie do Aroma Espresso, a nastepnie pojechalysmy miejskim autobusem do centrum miasta. Nawiasem mowiac, miejsca z jedzeniem w Miami i prawdopodobnie wszystko inne jest bardzo drogie! Ludzie mowia, ze Londyn jest drogi, ale moze byc tani, jesli tylko sie rozejrzysz (to nie jest takie trudne), ale Miami jest po prostu za drogie.
Dzielnica Wynwood byla pierwsza na naszej liscie. To miejsce z duza iloscia graffiti, w którym ludzie robia zdjecia Instagramowe itp. Bylo ladne, ale nie zaszokowalo mnie zbytnio.
Nastepnie pojechalysmy do Little Havana, zeby cos zjesc i zobaczyc, jak to wyglada. Ulica nie byla imponujaca ani nic, ale znalazlysmy urocza restauracje i do dzis pamietam, ze dostalam najsmaczniejszy ryz z fasola!
Wieczorem poszlysmy do innego klubu, gdzie ludzie zachowywali sie tak samo jak w poprzednim, ale juz nas to nie obchodzilo i po prostu bawilysmy sie same.
Ostatni dzien w Miami, dramat od rana! Otrzymalam maila, ze nasz lot z powrotem do Europy jest odwolany, pamietam, ze mielysmy problemy nawet ze znalezieniem nowego lotu z Hawany gdziekolwiek, o ile nasza lokalizacja zostala wybrana jako USA. Szybko sie zorientowalysmy i zmienilysmy na UK lub cokolwiek innego. Udalo nam sie znalezc nowy z przesiadka w Toronto, czas oczekiwania 8 godzin, co uznalysmy za swietny pomysl. Wystarczajaco duzo czasu, aby choc troche zobaczyc miasto.
Wiekszosc dnia spedzilam nad basenem, potem na zakupach przy Lincoln Lane, a wieczorem po prostu na pakowaniu i przygotowywaniu na nastepny dzien.
W sobote udalysmy sie na lotnisko, zeby zlapac samolot do Cancun. 1,5-godzinny lot z pieknym widokiem na Morze Karaibskie z turkusowa woda. Prawdopodobnie najprzyjemniejsza podroz w moim zyciu.
Zameldowanie w hotelu bylo otwarte od godziny 14.00 i bylysmy tam dwie godziny wczesniej.
To byl koszmar! Biedna Monika czekala w kolejce przez te dwie godziny, majac przed soba tylko jedna lub dwie osoby ktorzy byli obslugiwani bardzo wolno. Osoba w recepcji tak dlugo pomagala tym ludziom, ze Monice byla juz wsciekla, gdy podeszla do biurka, po sprawdzeniu niektorych dokumentow facet powiedzial jej, ze zrobili overbooking i nie maja dla nas pokoi. Nie moge sobie wyobrazic, jak musiała byc wkurzona. Ale jest dobra w wyciagnieciu czegoz z takich sytuacji. W koncu dali nam (calej naszej piatce, poniewaz dziewczyny mialy wlasnie do nas dolaczyc) 2 apartamenty w innym budynku tego hotelu, w ktorym byla bardziej strefa VIP, mielysmy jacuzzi na balkonach, a pokoje byly obok siebie tak ze lenistwa moglysmy po prostu przeskoczyc przez balkon i dostac sie do drugiego pokoju, robilam to caly czas. Wszystko bylo swietne w tym miejscu, widok na morze, które bylo bardzo blisko, baseny i restauracje, w piwnicy byl nawet maly klub.
W Cancun bylysmy tylko przez trzy dni, drugi dzien zmarnowalysmy na kacu i plywaniu w basenie.
W poniedzialek postanowilysmy w koncu cos zrobic i pojechalysmy na miasto, szukalysmy najlepszej okazji, zeby zobaczyc cenote i kilka innych atrakcji. Porozmawialysmy z kilkoma osobami i wreszcie znalazlysmy najlepszego przewodnika. Zabrali nas do Boca de Puma, gdzie moglysmy jezdzic quadami (ATV), zip-linem w dzungli i plywac w cenote.
Nie bylo to nic oszalamiajacego, ale biorac pod uwage nasz budzet i czas (dotarlysmy tam dosc pózno) bylo calkiem niezle, zip line bylo prawdopodobnie najlepsza czescia tego wypadu.
W koncu nadszedl czas na nasz prawie ostateczny cel, a na pewno najwazniejszy - Hawana na Kubie.
Bylam tak podekscytowana, ze tam w koncu bede, marzylam o tym od dawna i moge powiedziec, ze nie zawiodlo mnie to miejsce.
Na lotnisku zlapalysmy taksowke, ktora byl bardzo starym Chevrolet, w drodze do miasta zaczelysmy widziec wiele podobnych samochodow, z których slynie Kuba. Gdzies pozniej zdalysmy sobie sprawe, ze wiekszosc z nich to taksowki, prywatni ludzie zwykle jezdza nowoczesniejszymi samochodami, a stare sa trzymane dla turystow, co wciaz jest calkiem spoko.
Wynajelysmy Airbnb na Starym Miescie w Hawanie. Mialysmy tam 3 pokoje, kazdy z lazienka i dwie bardzo urocze pokojowki, które przychodzily tam tylko kilka razy dziennie lub kiedykolwiek czegos potrzebowalysmy. Cena byla bardzo dobra, lokalizacja jeszcze lepsza, a wlasciciel wydawal sie super mily.
Jedna z pokojowek wskazala nam droge do banku i miejsca, w którym mozna bylo kupic karty internetowe. Korzystanie z internetu na Kubie jest bardzo skomplikowane, jest on glownie dla turystow, poniewaz ludzie nie moga sobie na to pozwolic w swoich domach lub nie maja do tego prawa, nie jestem pewina. W niektorych miejscach jest kilka punktow Wi-Fi, zwykle dostepnych tylko przez kilka godzin dziennie. Przewaznie mozesz polaczyc sie w hotelach, ale musisz miec specjalna karte, która daje 1 godzine do wykorzystania przez miesiac.
Mozesz sobie to wyobrazic? Kazdego dnia spedzamy wiele godzin wpatrujac sie w te male ekrany, a tam dostajesz tylko jedna godzine miesiecznie.
Oczywiscie mozesz kupic wiecej kart i je zuzyc od razu, jesli chcesz, ale mysle, ze dla lokalnych mieszkancow jest to dosc drogie i nie jest latwo je kupic. Dostajesz go z „czarnego rynku”, najprawdopodobniej mozna je tez kupic w hotelach, ale my to zrobilysmy w miescie.
Tego dnia duzo chodzilysmy po okolicy i w pewnym momencie bylysmy bardzo glodne, nie bylo latwo znalezc restauracje, która bylaby odpowiednia dla calej naszej piatki, wiec zatrzymalysmy sie przy pierwszej, ktora zobaczylysmy i to byl blad. Dla mnie, jako wegetarianki, nie mieli opcji, wiec dali mi salatke z surowej kapusty. To bylo obrzydliwe!
Pierwszego wieczoru w Hawanie 3 z nas zdecydowalo sie pojsc potanczyc, ktos powiedzial nam o Case De La Musica, ktora najwyrazniej byla najlepszym miejscem do tanca, ale kiedy tam dotarlysmy, okazalo sie, ze miejsce to jest zamkniete. Ktos by na tyle uprzejmy, ze pokazal nam uroczy bar, moze i byl maly, ale nie przeszkadzalo nam to. Zostalysmy tam do pozna.
Rano zjadlysmy sniadanie w naszym Airbnb i poszlysmy do autobusu 'hop on hop off', aby zobaczyc miasto z gornego pokladu. To byla przyjemna podroz, wystarczajaco dluga, zeby zobaczyc rozne czesci miasta.
Wszyscy poszlysmy tej nocy do klubu. To miejsce nazywalo sie Fantaxy i swietnie mieszali muzyke latynoska z hip hopem i wszystkimi popularnymi piosenkami. Miejsce bylo pelne, a ludzie sie na nas gapili. Prawdopodobnie dlatego, ze bylo 5 dziewczyn ktore tanczyly same ze soba, a reszta dziewczyn tanczyla tylko z chlopakami. Przynajmniej wyjasniam to sobie w ten sposób. I tak nas to nie obchodziło.
Sasiad polecil nam restauracje swojego Syna i pomyslalysmy, ze to genialny powod do spaceru. To byla prawdopodobnie godzina marszu w jasnym sloncu z 30 stopniami. Miejsce to nazywalo sie Magic Flute. Kiedy tam dotarlysmy, bylysmy bardzo zmeczone.
Wiekszosc dziewczyn postanowila wrocic na nasze Airbnb i zdrzemnac sie, a tylko z Joanna zdecydowalysmy sie troche bardziej zwiedzic miasto. Wzielysmy taksowke do zamku Moro, skad mozna zobaczyc miasto ze wzgorza.
Chodzilysmy jeszcze troche po Starym Miescie i wrocilismy do mieszkania jak zaczelo padac.
Wieczorem znowu pojechalysmy do Fantaxy. Tanczylysmy jakby nie bylo jutra i zakonczylysmy noc o 4 rano.
I to byl nasz ostatni dzien w Hawanie, byla jeszcze jedna podroz i ostatni przystanek.
Jest cos wyjatkowego w tym kraju, moze to brak internetu ludzie sa tak mili i pomocni. Chlopcy na ulicach nie podchodza do dziewczyn, ale cmokaja na nie (troche jak do psow), robi sie to irytujace po czasie, ale w ten sposob pokazuja ze dana dziewczyna im sie podoba. Ludzie graja w szachy na ulicach, na glownej promenadzie dzieci graja w pilke nozna lub ucza sie jezdzic na deskorolce, zawsze spiewaja lub taacza. Rzadko widzisz ludzi na ich telefonach, widuje sie ich czasami i jest to glownie blisko punktu Wi-Fi.
Tam jest inaczej, to jak cofniecie sie w czasie.
Wybralysmy Varadero jako nasz ostatni przystanek, poniewaz wiedzialysmy, ze bedziemy potrzebowac troche czasu na relaks.
Varadero slynie z hoteli all inclusive i mieszkalysmy w jednym z nich.
Blisko do plazy i mieli duzy basen. Bylo dobrze.
Dojazd do hotelu byl dosc interesujacy. Ktos polecil nam taksówkarza, ktory nie zdawal sobie sprawy, ile mamy walizek. Bylo nas piec dziewczyn z piecioma duzymi bagazami, a samochód nie byl tak duzy jak ten, ktory zlapalysmy z lotniska, ale udalo nam sie wcisnac wszystko. To oznaczalo, ze musialam siedziec z nogami polozonymi na jednej z walizek cala droge. Bylo dosc zabawnie.
Po obiedzie udalysmy sie na plaze z bezprzewodowym glosnikiem i zrobilysmy tam mala dyskoteke.
Cala reszta dni w Varadero wygladala prawie tak samo: jedzenie, picie, plywanie, opalanie sie, ogladanie wystepow i kilka razy poszlysmy do klubu znajdujacego sie w tym hotelu, ale nie bylo tam za dobrze.
12.06 lecialysmy z powrotem do Anglii przez Kanade. Musielysmy wstas, gdy na zewnątrz bylo jeszcze ciemno, spakowac nasze rzeczy do taksowki i pojechac na lotnisko w Hawanie.
Te kilka godzin w Toronto spedzilysmy spacerujac po okolicy i szukajac czegos do zrobienia.
Mysle, ze bylysmy juz troche zmeczone poszukiwaniem czegos ekscytujacego, wiec wystarczylo nam patrzenie na drapacze chmur.
Musze powiedziec jedno, Canada Airlines to najlepsze linie lotnicze, ktorymi kiedykolwiek lecialam! Wszystko bylo swietne w tym locie. Bylo tak wygodnie, ze moglabym leciec dookola swiata i z powrotem i nie czuc zmeczenia. Goraco polecam!
Wracajac do tego dramatu z naszym odwolanym lotem, oczywiscie odzyskalysmy pieniadze za odwolanie lotu, ale znalazlam rowniez firme, ktora zdobyla nam dodatkowe pieniadze, wiec dostalysmy dodatkowa gotowke kilka miesiecy po powrocie! Win-win.
Moim ulubionym przystankiem byla zdecydowanie Hawana z przyjaznymi i usmiechnietymi ludzmi, pieknymi budynkami i samochodami.
Jesli kiedykolwiek bedziesz mial okazje tam pojechac, po prostu zrob to! Lub nawet jesli nie masz takiej mozliwosci, stworz ja, zanim calkowicie sie tam zmieni.
